We awoke on day 4, and wandered out for a walk while waiting for the villa breakfast to open at 8:30. It was tough waiting for coffee until then!!

Breakfast was good: several types of coffee, yummy yogurt, coffee, pastries and so much more. We were proud to be the first ones in to grab a tray!

We then hopped on a bus to Fira, just a short drive away. We walked around Fira for a bit, and it was a lot like Oia — narrow walkways among shops and villas climbing higher up the mountain. We saw the infamous Three Bells of Fira, which was not nearly as mobbed with people as I expected.

Fira is where the cruise ships unload passengers, and there was one tendering people ashore. From there, passengers either take the cable car to the town or take the walkway. They can also take a donkey ride up to make it easier.

We decided to take a bus to Pyrgos, to try to avoid the cruise ships crowds. We went back to the bus station and learned we needed to take the bus to Perissa, but not the express bus. We saw a bus loading passengers to Perissa so we stood in line and paid for our tickets. Caroline was already on board when the ticket seller asked me “Perissa?” I replied “Pyrgos.” She gave me a disgusted look, shook her head, gave me my money back and said “next bus.” Luckily I was able to nab Caroline and get her back off the bus to another disgusted look from the ticket seller.

As we waited for our bus, we watched in amazement at the well choreographed movement of the buses into the lot. This is not a bus station, with lanes for the buses. It’s just a lot, with 8 tour buses moving in and out, backing into spots regardless of who is walking where. No loudspeaker announcing the bus that’s arriving or leaving. Just signs in the front windows, on most of them.

We finally see our bus coming in so we get in line and are quickly able to board. Tickets are sold once underway. The ticket seller on this bus would not take my 10 euro bill for my 2.50 fare. Thinking maybe he didn’t have change, even though that seemed unlikely, I said I’d buy two tickets for 5 euro. And handed him the 10 euro bill again. He looked at me in disgust and handed it back to me, only saying “Not that.” I asked “Do you not have change??” and he finally explained that he didn’t want my 10 euro bill because it had a slight tear in it. 🤨 so I leafed through my wallet, right past the 5 euro bill he wanted me to pay with and gave him a 20.

We settled in for the ride hoping that was the last of the drama. Oh no, that wasn’t to be. When we arrived in Pyrgos, the bus had to do a u-turn to get to the stop. There’s a bus lot they use to do their amazing backing up and turning around. We were 20 yards away from the stop when the driver comes to a halt on the road. And there we sit. For 5 minutes, maybe 10. Traffic is piling up behind us, traffic isn’t moving in the other direction past us. We have no clue what the issue is. Finally the driver yells at the ticket guy, who gets out of the bus to direct the driver. Apparently the driver thought there was not enough room to get by the cars in the opposite lane, despite there being enough room on his right to move over and get by. Finally he moved the bus to the stop and we were able to exit, with great relief.

Once off the bus Caroline and I went in search of the highest point, the Castle of Pyrgos. Up we went, past the shops and the villas and more shops and restaurants and villas, past cathedrals and more villas. The view from the cathedral was of course remarkable.

We went in to lunch at this magnificent restaurant overlooking the valley below. Pita and fava dip, roasted eggplant and meatballs in tomato sauce, along with some red wine. Spectacular food, service and location, far from the crowds on the main roads.

Back we went to the bus stop to find out how to get the bus back to Fira. The bus was running late and we feared it would be Angry Bus Guy. Lo and behold, it was, but I chose not to try to pay with a torn 10 euro bill again, although it was tempting.

Safely back in Fira, we caught the bus to Oia. Still full from lunch, we grabbed some snacks at the market for later, in case we got hungry. We spent the evening talking and laughing until our bellies hurt.Good friends are good fun.